Incredible India

O lands! O all so dear to me – what you are, I become part of that, whatever it is.

– Walt Whitman

I wish I could do what Walt Whitman suggests. Visiting a country for a week obviously does not give one an in-depth picture. We pulled into harbor at Cochin (also known as Kochi), the capital of the state of Kerala, which has a population of 5 million people that has a diverse population (56 percent Hindu, 25 percent Muslim, 20 epercet Christian).  There is a Jewish quarter in the market visited by tourists hunting for bargains, but only eight Jews survive in Cochin. There is a strong communist influence in Kerala, and the government is Socialist. It is one of the wealthiest states in India with a highly educated citizenry.

India, with its 1.2 billion citizens, is the second-most populated country in the world, soon to overtake China.  Its economy is the world's ninth-biggest, and economic growth is clocking in at almost 8 percent. Area wise, it is the seventh largest, with 28 states, very different in every way, and seven territories. More than 20 languages are spoken. Eighty percent of the population is Hindu. Overall the literacy rate is 61 percent. Delhi, the capital with 22 million residents, is tucked away in the north. Mumbai, formerly called Bombay, on the northwest coast has 20 million. 

DELHI: Old Delhi was the capital of the Muslim Mughal Empire in the 17th and 18th Centuries and has many mosques, monuments and forts. New Delhi is the imperial city created as the capital of India by the British.  

Unfortunately we arrived in Delhi at night and left early the next morning for Agra, so we did not see much of the capital. I will quote Donald, a frequent traveler to India:

"It took me two days to deal with the crowds, the noise, the smells that assault you in this huge frenetic  place. The traffic-clogged streets are dirty and dusty, much more so than my first visit eight years ago. There are cycle rickshaws, motorized tuk tuks, scooters, motorcycles, trucks, buses, cows and oxen carts and dogs -- all competing for space with the incredible crush of humanity dodging the above in a strange choreography that somehow seems to function under the constant blare of horns ... There is an excellent new metro system, which works well if you are not too sensitive to being crushed in close intimacy with other sweaty and often pungent fellow travelers. Pushing and being pushed is the only way to get on and off, and everyone takes it in stride."

We left our five-star Crown Plaza Hotel in Delhi at 4:45 a.m. to catch a train that took us to Agra in two hours; the motor coach would have taken five hours.We had assigned seats on the train that had at least 10 long wagons. We were given bottled water and a snack.

AGRA: Two great Mughal monarchs, Akbar and Shah Jahan, transformed the little village of Agra into a befitting second capital of the Mughal Empire during the 16th and 17th Centuries. Today, Agra is full of contrasting buildings of red sandstone and white marble, including the Taj Mahal. Commissioned by Emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial to his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj was designed and planned by Persian architect Ustad Isa, and it took 22 yeas to complete. Apart from its stunning design balance and perfect symmetry, the Taj is noted for its elegant domes (the major one stands 115 feet), intricately carved screens and some of the best inlay work ever seen. Today, Agra is a city of 1.6 million people and is the most-visited city in India.

Our next stop was Agra Fort, predominantly red sandstone, was built in 1565 by Mughal Emperor Akbar, and is surrounded by walls. We had a buffet lunch at a hotel in Agra and got on our bus with 30 other Semester at Sea travelers to get to Jaipur, which took a longer-than-usual 6.5 hours. The Ramada Hotel was a welcome sight with a pool on its roof, offering me a cold but refreshing swim.  Hotels in India charge for the use of Internet but I was happy to speak to two of my children. Knowing we were to leave at 6 a.m., I tried to get some sleep.

JAIPUR: "The City of Victory" was commissioned by Maharaja Jai Singh II, a warrior, astronomer and politician who ruled the Mughal Empire from 1699 to 1743. Today's Jaipur is known as the Pink City, partly because the walls of the city are red sandstone, but mostly because the buildings were painted pink in 1876 to coincide with the visit of Prince of Wales, King Edward VII.

Entering the palace of Amer

Amer Fort, high up in the hills, is a opulent mix of red sandstone and marble buildings that forms a complex of chambers, hallways and a palace, built in 1744. There is an imposing gateway painted with the images of the elephant-headed god, Ganesh. The merging of  Rajput Mughal architectural styles is captured in the Sukh Niwas and Jas Mandir apartments, and the Charbagh garden. Some 5,000 tourists each year visit the premonitory above Maota Lake near Amer village.

We proceeded to Dera Amer on rough, dirt roads in Kukas, in the middle of nowhere, a delightful change from the crowded streets. We had a home-cooked meal at this lovely  sanctuary, which sometimes holds elephant polo (something I had never heard of it before) where we fed the elephants bananas, painted their bodies and washed them with a hose. The elephants helping by filling their trunks with water and splashing on their backs and then scratching themselves on the nearby trees. The children in our group loved the experience,  A young lady from town painted beautiful henna designs on the arms of legs of those willing to pay $10 (half of which probably went to the guide). Some of the students later found out, they could have had it done for $1 in town. Still, I have to give this lady credit; she was a true artist.

In the afternoon we visited Jantar Mantar, the largest and best preserved of the five observatories built by Jai Singh II in different parts of India. The observatory, consisting of outsized astronomical instruments is still in use. We also visited the City Palace, a delightful blend of Mughal and traditional Rajasthan architecture.  It sprawls over one-seventh of the area in the walled city and houses the Chandra Mahal, Shri Govind Dev Temple and the palace with Maharaja's private collection of textiles and armory.

The highlight of our visit to Jaipur was the cycle rickshaw ride in the old city, through the small lanes where we saw a flurry of colors and beautiful architecture, including the Hawa Muhal, the Palace of Winds.

BACK TO KOCHI: Our flight back to Kochi via Mumbai took most of the day. I was glad to get back to the Explorer's air conditioning and the quiet of my cabin. We spent another day in Kochi, seeing Hindu temples, mosques and a couple of churches. The open market is always fun to visit, and the Taj Hotel near the port was splendid with its Victorian elegance and the beautiful views from its outdoor garden. I was glad to be able to Skype with Ayla, knowing we will be at sea and away from a port for at least six days.

Buses, motorcycles and tuk tuks compete for space on the streets of Kochi

Guest lectures

Archbishop Desmond Tutu speaks about healthcare in South Africa in Professor Jeanette Lancester's Health Promotion course. He shared with us that he has had polio, tuberculosis and prostate cancer. 

Archbishop Tutu is interviewed about his thoughts on Global Management in Professor John Girard's class.

 

Agra gallery

My dear friend and Explorer cabinmate Topy and I pose in front of the Taj Mahal, among the world's most-photographed landmarks 

The gate of the entrance to the grounds of the Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal is an Islamic mausoleum built by a Persian architect for Shah Janan's beloved third wife, Mumtaz Mahal. She died during childbirth after her 14th pregnancy. It took 19 years, from 1631-1650,  to build the Taj Mahal in Agra, the capital of India during the 16th and 17th centuries. Today Agra, a city of 1.6 million people just two hours away from Delhi by train, is among India's most-visited sites. 

Up close, the Persian calligraphy and inlay work on the white marble walls of the Taj Mahal are breathtaking

This is the view of Taj Mahal that Shah Janan saw from his prison cell after one of his sons overthrew him in the mid-17th Century

Sailing the seas

The computer lab, open until 11 p.m. with a techie on duty and assisted by work study students, is usually full of students and faculty. All of us try to go green and avoid printing materials. We have access to many sites (without having to go online) for research. Also professors put their homework assignment in the "public folder" and we are encouraged to place our photographs and impressions on the same file. 

The dean sends us a memo every afternoon at sea, with announcements for the day and important information, including our location, water and air temperature (usually in the 80s F) and the water usage on board. We are conserving as much water as possible since we take in water only from the ports where we know we can get a clean supply. The last port was Singapore, the next is Mauritius

Most of us LLLs (lifelong learners) were asked to participate in an extended-family arrangement. I have two young men (one from Texas and one from Mexico) and two young ladies (from Idaho and Illinois), with whom I have dinner or lunch every third or fourth day. Sometimes I treat them to hamburgers on Deck 7 or smoothies. It is a way for us to give them sound advice or a shoulder to cry on, though mine have been trouble-free. 

Topy Fiske (second from left) and I treat our "adopted students" Deck 7. Mine are the middle three students while the fourth, Juan, had  a meeting and could not be with us.

The spa on board the ship is excellent. Massages, facials, manicures, pedicures, sauna, steam bath, haircuts, etc. are reasonably prices. They have beauty products for every need. We also have two shops selling clothing, gifts, memory sticks, thermoses, books, souvenirs and a lot of Semester at Sea souveneirs.

When it comes to fitness, we are offered a choice of classes like Zumba, yoga and Pilates. There are walks around Deck Three. There is a ping pong table on Deck 7 aft. Not far from the basketball court. I have even seen one gal being taught how to swim. 

There are groups that practice conversational Spanish, and children of faculty members take advantage of the Mandarin courses offered by some of the Chinese students. We have 32 children belonging to faculty and staff whose parents are home-schooling them. One faculty member has brought the kids' nanny, others hire students to babysit when they need a break.

Left: The Explorer crew often hold emergency exercises. This photo was taken during a mock rescue mission. A dummy was dropped off the ship and the crew, lowering themselves in a lifeboat, recovered it.

Memo to all aboard: March 5

Below is a sample of the daily memo from Tom Jelke, the dean of students. Each day, the dean sends around this email about the day's activities.

From: "ISE Admin Office" 

Date: March 5, 2013 6:30:48 PM GMT+09:00

To: Shipboard Community

Subject: Deans' Memo, March 5, 2013

 

  

March 5, 2013

Issue # 28

Tonight (A13) ·         India Service Pre-port meetings, 1800, Classroom 5 ·         Chinese Table, 1830, Room 2 ·         Interport students, 1900, Union ·         Diplomatic Briefing, 1930, Union ·         Logistical Preport, 2000, Union ·         Trip liaison meeting, 2100, Classroom 8 ·         Q&A with Ken Banks, 2100, Classroom 4 ·         Fireside Chat with Tom De Blais of Nike Foundation, 2115, Union   Looking ahead ·         March 11, Postport reflection, Union ·         March 13, Pictures with Arch, 0930-1100, 5024    Logistical Preport tonight India!  Find out what you need to travel safely and make India the most memorable port you visit.  Learn the conversion rate for yet another currency.  Pick up the green sheet.  You do not want to miss preport.  Plus, it’s mandatory. Trip liaison meeting following preport If you are leading a trip, field practicum or otherwise, please attend the brief meeting after preport to go over protocol and pick up trip materials.  Classroom 8. Tonight’s Fireside Chat Tom De Blais of the Nike Foundation will talk about finding meaning in your career and using design to change the world.  Don’t miss it!  2115, Union India Service Visits Pre-Meeting Are you doing any of the school, orphanage, or service visits in India? Come meet other participants, discuss what to expect, and define your own expectations in preparation for your visit!  Tuesday, 1800, Classroom 5. Overnight travel registration With your bottled water and your camera, you’ll stand out as a tourist, but we still need you register your overnight travel, in case we need to find you in a hurry.  Please take a minute to fill out the handy online form and set our minds at ease. 2200 is H-Hour for Beverage Vouchers If you have not turned in your beverage voucher to the Purser’s Desk by 2200 tonight, you will be billed for the entire cost of the voucher, so don’t forget! Save water That bottle of water you’re carrying from the ship is a real lifesaver in the Indian heat!  Make sure there’s enough to last the whole week by conserving as much water as you can.  We have no source for refilling our tanks in India, so we have to make our water last.  Go local—dusty, sweaty local—and save our water for drinking! Q&A with Ken Banks Ken is a National Geographic Explorer, social entrepreneur, and mobile technology innovator.  Come pick his brain on development, conservation, Africa, and more. March 5, 2100, Classroom 4. Data in search of an hypothesis Everyone is on the same ship, eating the same food and drinking the same water.  Many of the passengers have gastro-intestinal upsets.  None of the crew members has reported symptoms.  Now why do you think that might be? Let’s not infect our hard working crew with diseases we picked up in port!  Wash, wash, wash your hands, and keep ‘em off other people’s food and possessions.  Symptoms from diarrhea can appear up to 7 days after initial infection, so you may still be carrying a stowaway in your gut. How do you say “cheese” in Xhosa? Archbishop Tutu has graciously agreed to sit for pictures on our second day back from India.  He will be available from 0930-1100 in Dean Sharon’s office, 5024. Bring your own camera, and your best smile.  If you already have a picture with Arch, please allow others to have a turn. Post Port Reflection Come share about your experiences! Please contact Elizabeth atElizabeth.Coder.sp13@semesteratsea.org if you have a song, a slideshow, or anything else requiring an audio visual request. March 11, 2030, Union. A huge thank you to everyone who attended the Hunger Banquet! If you’re interested in planning your own event at home, the Hunger Banquet Toolkit is now posted in the Service Learning folder on the public folder. We will also attempt to post the Oxfam Hunger Banquet video as well. Still want to learn more about how to help families in need? Check out Heifer International or World Vision to see how your monetary donation can go towards purchasing chickens, goats, or even cows for deserving families around the world! A few more thoughts from Mother Teresa ·         Even the rich are hungry for love, for being cared for, for being wanted, for having someone to call their own. ·         Reach high, for stars lie hidden in your soul. Dream deep, for every dream precedes the goal. ·         We shall never know all the good that a simple smile can do. ·         If you judge other people, you have no time to love them.

Today’s Quote We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop.          – Mother Teresa Happy Birthday! March 5 Laura Frazee Amy Markel Jennifer Thresher March 6 Maxwell Anafo Jessica Coder Jasper Ramsey Courtney Rockwood Michael Yasunaga March 7 Ethan Boyle Gina Brizzi Heidi K. Chow March 8 Keegan Glennon March 9 Madeline Born Rayman Khan Charles Koransky Haowen Yu March 10 Viki Knapp Matthew Knisley Jessica Spivack March 11 Shariqa Habib Chi Liang-Yu Keani Meier Kreienbaum Daily Trivia Q: How many airports did India have in 2010? A: 352    Winner:  Zev Rosenfield Television Programming Channel 2  Toy Story 3, G Channel 3   Nelson Mandela: the life and times Channel 5  Letters from Iwo Jima Channel 6  Shakti: the Power of Women Hours & Schedules Dining Breakfast  0700-0830 Lunch          1130-1330 Dinner        1730-1930 Late night snacks  2200 in Garden Lounge Field Office – Tymitz Sq. At Sea  0900-1230, 1530-1700 In Port for trip departure only Library – Deck 6 At Sea  0800-2300 In Port CLOSED Medical Clinic – Deck 2 At Sea  0800-0900 & 1630­-1730 In Port 0700-0730 &  for 1 hour beginning at “on ship” time Counseling Center – Deck 2 At Sea  1100-1145 & 1630­-1730 (Walk-in) & by appt., through email:counselingcenter@semesteratsea.org In Port CLOSED Noon Bridge Report Location of ship Lat.6-42, Long. 78-46 E Miles traveled since Rangoon 1286 NM Miles since noon yesterday, 358 NM Miles to Cochin 266 NM Nearest land 55 NM W of Sri Lanka Avg. speed of ship (since Departure) 14.5 knots Avg. speed for last 24 hours 14.9 Knots Temp. of Water 82° Fahrenheit Temp. of Air 82° Fahrenheit Sunset:  1831 Sunrise:  0637 Fresh Water Consumption 60 gal/person

Human Nature: My favorite class

One of the psychology classes taught by Professor Charles Morris is "Human Nature." There are 80 students and Life Long Learners in the class. Within the first two days of our voyage, Dr. Morris had memorized all of his students’ names, including those in his smaller classrooms. This is my favorite class.

Among the subjects he has covered are:

Strengthening Memory

This can be achieved by:

• Engaging in physical exercise to increase one’s heartbeat and take in more oxygen,
• Reviewing and reflecting by keeping a diary, looking at photos, discussing the joy and richness in life, writing down daily three things for which you are grateful, focusing on the future,
• Not blocking the past, instead retrieving it by seeing. 
• Making lists, picking places to put things, using cues and peg words,
• Respecting your limitations, eliminating distractions,
• Doing one thing at a time – No multitasking,
• Avoiding high blood pressure, high cholesterol, diabetes.

Evolution and Its Impact on Behavior

Life on Earth began 4 billion years ago, apes appeared 35 million years ago, Homo sapiens mated with Neanderthals. Man began to live in communities 600,000 years ago at which time our brains got a push, males and females share 45 of 46 chromosomes, “y” chromosomes make us males, raging testosterone levels result in violent behavior (most murders in the world are committed by men who are 15 to 35-year-olds).

Gender Neutrality

Female fetuses are a result of two “x” chromosomes, males carry “x” and “y". During conception all brains are female, and the brain becomes masculine close to birth with release of testosterone. Gender neutrality cannot be achieved by surgically removing a man's genitals, as was falsely claimed by psychologist John Money who ran sex realignment clinics at Johns Hopkins in the 1980s.

Parental Investment Theory

When choosing a mate, male gorillas are not picky, according to researcher Robert Trives. They have minimal investment in a relationship. Female gorillas, on the other hand, knowing a sexual encounter could produce an offspring, look for a resourceful, mature and peaceful mate. Same theory holds true for human beings. Men put a lot of emphasis on youth and attractiveness. Women want men who are financially secure, somewhat older, willing to commit to a relationship and willing to invest in children.

Homomysteria

Recent research reviewed by author David Barash shows that genes and hormones determine whether a child will be homosexual or heterosexual. Researcher Alfred Kinsey claimed that very few people are strictly homosexual or heterosexual. In fact, effeminate men make better husbands and fathers. Barash, in researching hundreds of cases, found that 3-5 per cent of American males are gay (very few are bisexual), 1-2 percent of females are lesbian and that there are more bisexual lesbians. Women's preferences may change over the years while gay men always stay gay. 

Genes play a big role, but hormones in the mother's womb released during gestation are also determinant factors. If a male has a gay brother, his likelihood of being gay is 22 percent, the brother of a straight male has a 4 percent likelihood of being gay. Identical twins born into a family with a gay member have a 52 percent odds of other twin being gay. The likelihood of a younger brother being gay increases if there are several older brothers in the family. Nurture after birth only has a minor effect. 

The television show "60 Minutes" did an in-depth study of identical twins, including that of 7-year-old boys whose interests and behavior were opposite. One collected GI Joes, toy trucks and guns, the other one played with Barbie dolls and preferred frilly, pink drapes in his room. Luckily, their parents accepted the way they are, which resulted in well-adjusted boys with different sexual identities.

Human Intelligence: Nature or Nurture

Contrary to America's Bill of Rights, all people are not created equal. IQ makes a big difference in how people handle problems and special situations. Our general intelligence, measured in primary school, is predominantly a hereditary factor. Those with 115 or higher IQs make up 13.6 percent of our population. One's IQ can be somewhat improved by the environment. Tom Bouckard has proven this theory by studying identical twins separated at birth. They become more alike as they get older, and the influence of environment on intelligence decreases as the years go by.

Myanmar gallery

"If you're feeling helpless, help someone." - Aung San Suu Kyi 

Semester at Sea packaged 300 sets of books, erasers and other supplies, some of which we gave away at a country school in the north. I met with third-graders, all 9-years-old, except the one looking into the camera. He is 11. They are trying to learn English.

Two American preschoolers traveling with their parents on the ship found a way to communicate with Burmese children. By piling up rocks and sticks and pouring sand on top, they amazed their counterparts.

These children in uniform are lucky because there is a primary school in their village, which has dirt roads and homes made of bamboo. They were glad to see us visit. Few children attend school because there are few in villages. Most kids try to sell postcards or knick-knacks to tourists now that Myanmar has opened up to the outside world. 

Burmese get the most out of nature. This young climber slit the fresh leaves of a palm tree to collect its sap, used to make liquor and candy. Dried palm leaves are then shaped into baskets or decorative items. 

Max Von Hippel, the teenage son of one of the ship's professors, shows children at a roadside stand the video he made of the tree climber (above). The curiosity and joy on their faces were contagious. 

This truck is an example of how the Burmese people make the most of what they have. It is in good running order and carries as many as 20 people (most of them hanging out from the back) to and from work.

A dream come true

“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step.” – Lao Tzu

This was written for the SAS website as a sort of a testimonial:

A voyage on the MV Explorer with the Semester at Sea is a dream come true, making me wonder why I waited until the seventh decade of my life to experience the joy of sailing around the world. What makes it unique is the diversity of its travelers, the in-depth classes offered while we are at sea, the excellent side trips arranged by well-versed tour operators, the lectures about the countries to be visited and the affordability of its luxury features.

We, the voyagers, are amazed at how smoothly everything runs on the MV Explorer, thanks to Captain Jeremy, a Brit, and a highly experienced international crew. On this Spring 2013 voyage, there are 875 passengers, including students, faculty, lifelong learners and some guests who come and go from port to port. The interior and the exterior spotless. The cleaning crew works around the clock, making sure no germs are transferred from handrails, elevator buttons, doorknobs, computer keyboards, and all public spaces where hand sanitizers are overtly visible.  

Our voyage began in Ensenada, Mexico, and will end, after 110 days, in Barcelona, Spain.

We have two cafeteria-style dining rooms that serve a well-balanced variety of meals and, on the top deck, a fast-food stand for burgers, hot dogs, pizza and ice cream at a nominal fee any time of the day as well as a cafe selling lattes, cappuccinos, rolls, candy and fruit. A private dining room caters to small groups where you can enjoy champagne and other drinks and order from a menu of steaks, lobsters and fancy desserts for more than a nominal fee.

The Explorer offers three semesters of college credit through the University of Virginia. During semester breaks it sails from port to port on shorter-term voyages. I was on a two-week Alaska cruise in the mid-1990s during which we could pull into smaller ports that large cruise ships could not. I am grateful to my son, Joseph Yackley, who made the Fall 1994 voyage. He has gone to get a Ph.D. in Middle Eastern history from the University of Chicago and has recently taken up a post in the foreign service. He will begin work as a political officer at the U.S. Embassy in Tunis later this year. Kudos to the Institute for Shipboard Education, the parent company for Semester at Sea, for helping inspire him.

I intend to take my whole family on a shorter voyage in 2014. 

Above: I came across the picture of my (long-haired) son Joe, a Semester at Sea alum, in the on-board yearbook. This snap was taken at the pyramids of Giza in the Fall of 1994. 

Land of pagodas: Yangon gallery

“When I was young and had no sense

In far-off Mandalay 
I lost my heart to a Burmese girl
As lovely as the day.
Her skin was gold, her hair was jet,
her teeth were ivory;

I said, "For twenty silver pieces,
Maiden, sleep with me."
She looked at me, so pure, so sad,
The loveliest thing alive,
And in her lisping, virgin voice,
Stood out for twenty-five.” 

- George Orwell

Swangun Pagoda in Yangon is 99 meters high, covered by layers of gold leaf. The tip has precious jewels, including a 65-carat diamond. Sixty-eight smaller pagodas surround it.

Barefoot visitors and locals fill the acre-sized square to pray or awe over the richness and holiness of the Swaghun Pagodas.

A little girl looks around while her mother prays to Buddha.

Columns holding up prayer areas are decorated with cut class.

Visitors put gold leaf on certain parts of this statue depending on the prayer. If they want love, they adhere gold leaf on Buddha's heart. Praying for good health requires gold leaf on his belly. This Buddha's hands are misshapen by people seeking wealth.

I stand before a Buddha just to show you how big they are 

in the pagodas of Myanmar. The right hand touches the 

ground to indicate worldliness. Religion is very important; the people

 will go hungry and still bring 

food and flowers to the monks.