Sel at sea

Sunday, March 31, 2013

The long journey



The Republic of Botswana is a landlocked country surrounded by Zambia, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Angola and South Africa. The citizens refer to themselves as "Batswana," though many English-language sources use "Botswanan" instead. The country is the size of France with only 2 million citizens.

Compared to its neighbors, Botswana  has its act together. It has a solid economy, mostly based on mining for gold and diamonds, as well as agriculture. Tourism accounts for 12 percent of gross domestic product, and visitors can undertake safaris (Swahili for "long journey") for excellent game and bird viewing in several wildlife parks.

Botswana's currency is stronger than the South African Rand.  It is a parliamentary Republic with a beloved president, Ian Khama. There is freedom of speech, free health care and education, which is mandatory until age 16. There are two universities that provide education with a modest loan. Government workers make about $300 a month, rather high among African countries. 

Medication to combat HIV is readily available free of charge with the aim of eradicating the killer disease. Botswana has the second-highest rate of HIV infection in the world after Swaziland, and the epidemic threatens the strides the country has made in social and economic development.

Despite the high HIV/AIDS rate, life expectancy is 65 years. The government gives land to individuals who are willing to develop it with electricity, roads and sewage facilities. It also encourages environmental and ecological programs.  The capital is Gaborone, English is the official language, but Tswana, made up of four tribal tongues, is also spoken. 

Our driver and guide in Chobe National Park was Bob, who was very knowledgeable and spoke good English. During the safari he kept in touch with the other Jeeps to make sure we saw all that they did. He is 29-years-old and ready to propose to his girlfriend when she finishes college this summer. The government gave Bob two parcels of land  in a remote part of northern Botswana, which he developed so he can sell lots to people to settle there. He is a mechanic as well as a certified guide.

Besides the well-preserved Chobe National Park, points of interests include Okavango Delta,  the only inland river delta in the world, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Tsodilo and Nxai Pan National Park. Botswana has prohibited poaching for nearly three decades, but the problem persists and some reports say the country's wildlife could be wiped out by 2017. See this 2011 article in The Guardian: "Drought and poachers take Botswana's natural wonder to brink of catastrophe."

Left: Botswana is estimated to have more than 125,000 elephants, compared with just 8,000 in 1960. Below: A lone bull elephant at Chobe. 



Saturday, March 30, 2013

Botswana gallery


Puku, a type of antelope, is on the list of endangered animals. There are less than 450 in Botswana, while 1,000 are found in Zambia







Impala are plentiful in Chobe Park and stick together so they can warn each other of pending danger. They are not as quick as lions but have great stamina



Giraffes, roaming in groups, are not threatened by other animals 

Bull elephants prefer to be by themselves. They walk 18 kilometers every day to the Linyanti River. We watched this bull elephant drink gallons and gallons of water by filling his truck, which is forked, unlike his Asian cousin. He squirted out nearly as much water as he drank. He also squirted water over his back and under his belly before walking away




I took the photo on the left from the passenger side of our jeep. The specially modified off-road vehicles have no side windows and just a tarp for a roof. The windshield folds down for a better view. The steering wheels are on the right, a British legacy. Toyotas are preferred over Land Rovers because they are easier to maintain. There were six other passengers in ours, so I was lucky to have the front seat next to our driver/guide. He took the photo on the right. 





Female and baby elephants stuck together as they crossed in front us, heading for a mud bath. The elephants appear to feel comfortable around humans, perhaps since the Botswana government passed a shoot-to-kill law against poachers 29 years ago. Rangers roam the parks to enforce the law





This lioness was resting beneath a tree when our Jeep approached. She looked at us, got up slowly (giving us a chance to photograph her), then walked away looking for prey. We followed her for a while before she ducked behind some bushes



A family of hippopotami frolicking in the Zambezi River



A lone crocodile




Our safari included birdwatching. Top: a fish eagle; middle: vultures; bottom: an Egyptian goose

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Pilot whales re-beach themselves after rescue


From the Sunday Times:



Three of five pilot whales that were released into the sea on Sunday afternoon re-beached during the night, the National Sea Rescue Institute said on Monday.
"The City of Cape Town ... reported that during the night three of the five whales ... were found beached on Long Beach, Simonstown, at 11:30 pm," NSRI spokesman Craig Lambinon said in a statement. At 2:30 am on Monday, the three whales were euthanised after they were found to be in poor health.
"The False Bay coastline is being monitored by the authorities to determine if the remaining two whales may also beach," he said.
Nineteen pilot whales, mostly adults, beached at Noordhoek Beach in Cape Town on Sunday morning. A 20th whale had managed to swim back into the surf.
Lambinon, at the time, said five of them were transported to the Simonstown naval base and taken out to sea. One of them had rebeached in Simonstown and was later taken to sea on a tugboat.
Another nine whales were euthanased on Noordhoek beach, and another five died naturally.
Police, sea rescue and other services helped keep the mammals alive on the beach by using sheets and water. Attempts to refloat them had failed.

Interview with Captain Jeremy Kingston, Master of the MV Explorer



Captain Jeremy Kingston is from the UK. It was at the age of 12 that he first decided he wanted to go to sea, inspired by a dramatic photo of a warship in heavy weather, which was advertising careers in the Royal Navy. He joked that it must have been temporary insanity!

At the age of 15 he applied for a scholarship to the Royal Naval College at Dartmouth, but being a shy child “I failed to make the grade,” he said. Two years later he applied to join the Merchant Navy and has been at sea ever since, becoming a captain of a cruise ship before he was 40.

The Institute for Shipboard Education, a not-for-profit organization, first acquired the Explorer in 2004 on charter, after the original owners went bankrupt, and purchased it from the banks in 2007 at below market price.

The ship is owned by ISE, but the operation and management of the ship is contracted out to V Ships, a ship management company. They are responsible for all aspects of the operation, including supplying the crew, purchasing food, fuel, spare parts and maintenance.

The Academic program is provided by the University of Virginia.

Q. How did you acquire this job? How long have you been Captain of the Explorer?
In 2005 I was working for another of V Ships’ clients, Radisson Seven Seas Cruises. The ship I was in command of was about to be sold, and there was no place for me after that in their fleet. At the time Explorer had suffered its “wave incident” and the captain who had been on board needed a break, so I was asked if I would like to take over from him. Having asked what other alternatives for employment there were, I was told that there were none, so I happily agreed to join the program. (The ‘wave incident’ damaged the bridge and other parts of the ship during a bad storm.)

Q. What is the normal speed of the Explorer, and what is the fastest that we have gone?
Ideally, for the reasons of fuel economy, we travel at relatively slow speeds, on average about 14.5 knots, which requires only one engine in service, which we rotate, to ensure equal usage.
During this Semester, we briefly reached a speed of 26 knots shortly after departing Singapore.

Q. How much fuel do we use a day? How much do we spend on fuel and port costs?
Using 1 engine we can achieve about 14.5 knots and our consumption would be about 57 metric tonnes per day. Using two engines we can achieve about 21 knots and our consumption would be about 96 metric tonnes per day. Using three engines we can achieve about 25 knots and our consumption would be about 134 metric tonnes per day. Using four engines we can achieve about 28 knots and our consumption would be about 172 metric tonnes per day.
For the year, we anticipate spending approximately $12,000,000 on fuel, and about $3,000,000 on costs associated with our port stays.

Q. What was the worst storm you experienced?
The worst storm that I experienced was in 1986, whilst crossing the North Atlantic on a refrigerated cargo ship. The second worst was probably the storm we experienced the day before we arrived in Yokohama. On our crossing from Honolulu to Yokohama, we had stayed south of the regular route, and successfully avoided a series of storm systems. However, on the last couple of days before Yokohama, there was one more storm system. We tried to pass safely to the west of it, but unfortunately the storm did not move as fast as was forecast, and it was also much more intense than forecast. As a result, we had to put up with waves of up to 30 feet and winds that were gusting to 65 mph.

Q. What about piracy on the seas? What is your form of defense?
In this part of the World, Somalia and the Gulf of Aden are considered to be the “hot spots” for piracy, but due to the concentration of international naval forces in that area, the pirates have moved their operations further afield and the risk now extends all the way to the west coast of India & Sri Lanka and as far south a 10 degrees south of the equator. Before and during our passage across the Indian Ocean, we have been receiving intelligence reports on the level of piracy activities. We were also registered with the British Naval Forces who were monitoring our progress as we crossed the area. Before sailing from Cochin, there had been no reported incidents for several weeks. Our principle defense from pirates consists of staying out of any area where there is a risk of contact, and also our speed. During the passage, we had additional security staff and lookouts posted, and high pressure water hoses prepared, which would prevent pirates from getting close to the ship and boarding, and would probably sink their boats.

Q. What is the role of the pilot in each port? Which is the best port to do temporary maintenance?
The role of the pilot is to give us the benefit of his local knowledge, and we work together as a team when entering and leaving harbor. The pilot knows the port, the navigational hazards such as currents, shallows and which berth we have been assigned. He can also better communicate with the various harbor services such as tugs, mooring men etc. However, I maneuver the ship and berth it. I have a better knowledge of the ship’s unique handling characteristics, and I am always responsible for the ship. As far as maintenance, we do as much as possible ourselves, using the ship’s staff. In certain ports, such as Saigon, we have a long association with some of the contractors, and the cost of labor is relatively inexpensive.

Q. What happened in Rangoon, why were we delayed in pulling into port? What is the least depth that Explorer can handle?
Communication with Myanmar is difficult. They do not have advanced internet systems and despite many requests for information, they did not reply until the last few days before arrival.
The river is very fast flowing; there is a considerable amount of mud and silt carried down the river. As a result, the shoals and sand bars are constantly changing. In reality, the ship arrived at its scheduled time, which is determined by the tides. You may have noticed that as we turned around in the river before docking we were drifting sideways up the river at a speed of about 4.5 Knots. We are not allowed to enter the river, unless the tide is flooding, so this determined our arrival time. Due to some of the SAS travel arrangements, we tried to arrive a day earlier, but were told that they would not complete the dredging of the berth by that time.
Technically, as long as the ship can float, we are OK. In reality there has to be a safety margin of a minimum of 10% of the ship’s draft, say 2.5-3 feet, but that is only at very low speeds. Ideally for maneuvering we would like to have at least 10 feet beneath the keel.

Q. How about dry dock time?
The ship has to have periodic dry-docking, for routine inspections of the underwater hull and fittings, as well as maintenance. The last dry-docking was in December 2011 and the next one will be at the end of April 2014. They occur during the periods between semesters, and routinely the ship is out of service for 2 or 3 weeks. To permit this long period of time between dockings, we carried out an “in water” inspection of the ship’s underwater hull in Singapore. In recent years the dry docking has been completed in the Bahamas, due to the close proximity to Port Everglades, where the semesters have been ending.

Q. Where does most of your staff come from? Do you have much of a turnover?
The majority of our crew is from the Philippines and India, with a few from Europe. We have very good retention rates, so there is little turnover. They are recruited by V Ships, which has a chain of regional recruitment offices around the World. Whilst on board, the crew has various facilities available to them, as the ship is their home for several months. These include a gym, a lounge & bar, dining area and reasonably well appointed cabins. Due to the nature of the program, they all have the opportunity to go ashore in various ports. They go on vacation on a rotational basis. The crew works 6-8 months on board, and will then ideally have two or more months off. The officers work four months on board and have two months of vacation. Myself, I work a semester on the ship and have a semester off the ship, so on average I work six months a year.

Q. Why do you wear whites? What was your favorite moment/memory with SAS?
Wearing whites cuts down on wardrobe planning. Traditionally, in hot climates a white uniform is cooler than the heavier “blue” uniforms with a jacket. My favorite and most amusing memory would have to be a night out in Saigon with the Hotel Director. We were having a quiet drink at a small table in one of the better-known nightspots in the city. On the next table was a noisy group of expatriate guys who presumably were living and working in Saigon. As the evening progressed, every couple of minutes a student would walk past, recognize me and ask if they could have a picture taken with me. After about an hour of this routine, the guys at the next table were clearly wondering who this celebrity was! It made my evening!

That you, Captain Jeremy, you made my day and my semester at sea!






Monday, March 25, 2013

A little bit of good: A final interview with the archbishop

Do your little bit of good where you are: it's those little bits put together that overwhelm the world. -- Desmond Tutu

Q.: We are approaching South Africa, your country.  Describe your feelings of elation when apartheid ended.
D.T.:   Finally, we were free.  It is impossible to describe how we felt. It's like asking a deaf person to describe the music of a classical orchestra. Yes, we are free.  We thought paradise would come, we knew it would not come fast. But it would come. We knew a world where people are free is more likely to prosper. Free people would be creative and take initiative. Freedom is cheaper than oppression.

Q.: How are things now?
D.T.: I am sad to say South Africa is the most unequal country in the world. 
There is too much disparity in this most beautiful country of all. There is too much corruption. There are many millionaires but the majority of South Africans still live in shacks packed together with no sanitation or running water.  Few Africans have access to education or health care.

Q.: How is it that South Africa with such advanced medical techniques does not provide health care?
D.T.:  Good question. This is the country that performed the first heart transplant surgery in the world. It has excellent hospitals for people who can afford it. The government provides no health care to its citizens. South Africa leads the world in HIV cases (5 million are afflicted, 900 people die of HIV everyday).  What can you expect when you put thousands of workers in all-male hostels for a year? They go back home and infect their wives. Other ailments such as cholera, tuberculosis and intestinal problems cannot be overcome until people get clean water and decent sanitation. I myself have had polio, tuberculosis and now prostate cancer. Luckily Sloan Kettering in New York treated me.

Q.: What kind of rights do women have in South Africa? What's your opinion of women?
D.T.: In South Africa, women are more likely to be raped than learn to read.  South Africa is the murder capital of the world.  I am a preacher.  I tell my followers "God created Adam and put him in paradise, he had lions, tigers, snakes and other animals around him but he was lonely until God created Eve."  Wow, what a creature!  A human being cannot live in isolation. Men tend to be loners.  Women are the connectors. They are compassionate, they are nurturers. We owe so much to our mothers.

Q.: What advice do you have for women?
D.T.:  I say, "Any woman who wants to be equal to men has low ambition." I say, "Go for it. Aim high."  We need women leaders in the world.

Sunday, March 24, 2013

South Africa safety


UPDATE: As of March 29, nine people from our ship were mugged, including four at knife point, and there were another nine reported thefts in Cape Town, according to our executive dean.



I last visited South Africa more than a decade ago, and it was one of the friendliest, most interesting countries I had ever seen. I brought my family with and we toured townships and wineries, ate at upscale restaurants and swam at public beaches. We were aware then that there was a crime problem, but we always felt safe and secure.
This safety warning from our executive dean would indicate that things have gotten worse in Africa's biggest economy. Archbishop Tutu says it is the most unequal country in the world. Difficult to comprehend all of these years after apartheid was ended.

From: Executive Dean
Date: March 24, 2013, 12:02:19 AM GMT+04:00
To: Shipboard Community 
Subject: FW: South Africa Health and Safety Information

I am forwarding this message that is compiled from ISE Risk Assessment Office and ISE’s private Risk Assessment Firm.  I want you to know that I don’t purposefully try to make Preports scary.  You should review the bullet points below and take heed.  This is your responsibility to review.  These points will also be posted on the bulletin board in Tymitz Square.  I will spend shortened time on these during preport and more time on other topics.
  
Attached please find the Country Specific Information sheet from the U.S. State Department for South Africa (to be posted in the Health and Safety case) and the ASI country report.

In Cape Town Semester at Sea has experienced one of the highest rates of criminal incidences and everyone should be reminded to exercise extreme caution at all times. In general, a very strong message should be sent for this country.

Please use the attached reports to prepare for the pre-port briefings and please be guided by the following points:
  • Cape Town has one of the highest crime rates in the world
  • ALWAYS travel as part of a group and, if possible, have a cell-phone in the group.
  • NEVER, NEVER walk alone at night anywhere...the streets of Cape Town can be extremely dangerous late at night.  Even ones that are harmless during the day.  Long Street included.
  • Participants should be encouraged to return to the ship early in the evening.  Those that return after dark should do so by licensed, metered taxi.
  • If in trouble, get back to the ship for assistance or find another safe haven to get help.
  • Use of "Date Rape" drugs is on the rise in Cape Town - Recently, a UVa graduate student was drugged, abducted, and assaulted while vacationing in Cape Town. Be very careful in bars, drink responsibly, and do not accept drinks from strangers.
  • Avoid public transportation, including mini-taxis. Use clearly marked licensed taxis.
  • Muggings, pick pocketing and purse snatching are not uncommon. Keep valuables on the ship and do not offer resistance if confronted
  • Crime and fraud involving ATM machines is very high. Only use ATM machines located inside banks, shops, or other well-lit public areas. Never withdraw money when you are alone.
  • Recently, two ATM machines in Cape Town were bombed and looted
  • Townships should be avoided unless accompanied by a reputable guide during the day. Other areas to avoid include Cape Flats district, Hanover Park, Musenenburg, Mitchell Plains, Parrow, Seapoint, Greepoint, Salt River, Observatory and Mowbray districts, including all suburban townships, due to higher rates of crimes in these areas.
  • Recently, an American student drowned while swimming or surfing…participants should be reminded of dangerous and unfamiliar sea currents.
  • Many muggings have taken place on Table Mountain hiking trails, especially early morning and evening. If you plan to hike, you should do so with a reputable guide and as a group.
  • Incidents of sexual assault are particularly high in South Africa and Cape Town. Women should exercise extra caution and never put themselves in a situation where they are alone.
  • The Doctor should send a clear message about the risks of HIV and other Health concerns.  Sex with locals presents an extremely high risk.
  • Demonstrations and strikes are very common. Participants should avoid them as they can sometimes turn violent.
·Ocean Safety: If visiting South Africa’s expansive coastline, be mindful of the possible presence of sharks when swimming or engaging in water sports. In 2010, at the Fish Hoek beach, and in 2005 and 2006 in the False Bay area of the Western Cape, several people were attacked by sharks; some of the attacks were fatal. When a shark is spotted close to the shore, local authorities will sound a warning siren to notify swimmers.

Please look at the notice posted in Tymitz Square glass cases for more information.
Tom Jelke

Palm Sunday blessing

Archbishop Desmond Tutu held Palm Sunday services on board the Explorer, dispensing bread and wine. Later I asked him to bless a photograph of my grandson Leander who will be 2 in April.

Friday, March 22, 2013

Dinosaurs of the sea


The Shark  by Lord Alfred Douglas
 
A treacherous monster is the Shark
He never makes the least remark.

And when he sees you on the sand,
He doesn't seem to want to land.

He watches you take off your clothes,
And not the least excitement shows.

His eyes do not grow bright or roll,
He has astonishing self-control.

He waits till you are quite undressed,
And seems to take no interest.

And when towards the sea you leap,
He looks as if he were asleep.

But when you once get in his range,
His whole demeanor seems to change.

He throws his body right about,
And his true character comes out.

It's no use crying or appealing,
He seems to lose all decent feeling.

After this warning you will wish
To keep clear of this treacherous fish.

His back is black, his stomach white,
He has a very dangerous bite.

There are 750 different species of sharks.  They have existed on this planet for 700 million years and play an important role in our eco system.  However, they are facing  extinction because they are  being hunted for their fins--especially in Japan and Southeast Asia where shark fin soup is considered a delicacy (a pound of shark fins may cost as much as $800).  Many fishermen catch them, cut off their fins and drop them back into the sea, condemning them to die.

Normally, sharks mind their own business.  Their strong sense of sound (through vibration) and smell help them survive on fish and other seafood.  They attack only when they feel danger and are valuable participants in our eco system. 

Suspecting that many SAS students are making plans to get into cages to get a close look at white sharks, the following warning was sounded by the Executive Dean:

If visiting South Africas expansive coastline, be mindful of the possible presence of sharks when swimming or engaging in water sports. In 2010, at the Fish Hoek beach, and in 2005 and 2006 in the False Bay area of the Western Cape, several people were attacked by sharks; some of the attacks were fatal. When a shark is spotted close to the shore, local authorities will sound a warning siren to notify swimmers.

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Sea Olympics aboard the Explorer



There is plenty of fun  the Explorer to give students a break from their studies. One of these was the Neptune Day and the other was the Sea Olympics, when everyone got into the competitive spirit. The Olympics are a tournament with events such as sporting events, tug-of-war and a backwards spelling bee.

As you know, there are 675 students, 43 faculty, 38 Lifelong Learners and 32 children on board the Explorer and students are divided into nine groups, organized according to the location of their cabins. Each group has a Residential Director, all experienced adults with master’s degrees. They keep the students informed and lend them a shoulder to cry on, should the need arise. These groups are named after a sea: the Adriatic, Aegean, Baltic, Bering, Caribbean, Mediterranean etc. The name of the Arabic Sea was changed to Persian Gulf after three Iranian students on that deck requested the change. For the Sea Olympics, which had nearly 50 events, each Sea had to choose a color and make a flag to carry during the opening ceremonies.

In order for Lifelong Learners, faculty and dependent children to compete in these Olympics, we had to come up with a color (gray) to wear and the name of a sea (Luna). Our sound was as howling at the moon.

Our banner was designed by the art teacher, we all cut up our version of a moon or crescent. Wrappers saved from candy bars made an illumunated border around the moon. I helped carry it throughout the ship during opening night ceremonies. We won first place in that category.
Clockwise from left: howling at the moon, Eastern-style toilet squat, Caribbean Sea pirates; the final result

We also came in first in the Eastern-Style Toilet squat. Rachel Bassett, 43, was able to stay 45 minutes in that position. She also did well howling at the moon. And 35 push-ups by Barbara Sobey, who is in her 50s, got us a blue ribbon. Her husband, Professor Ed Sobey, came in second in pull ups (23, I believe). We had a team of four doing synchronized swimming, but on land because the seas were too choppy and the pool was closed. With goggles and in swim suits the four 40-something guys were quite graceful. And very funny. 

My partner and I were a little too slow building a two-story house of cards, which had to stay upright for five long seconds, but the relay team did its best running from station to station carrying an egg in a spoon from event to event.  

The  Sea Olympics included a comedy routine by each Sea, and song and dance at the closing ceremonies that lasted the whole day with judges keeping score of all the events.  For a while Luna Sea was in first place but ultimately we finished fourth out of nine. The rowdy Caribbean Sea, dressed in black as pirates, took First Prize: an ice cream social.       

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Brown Spoken Word


Sunset in the land of Pagodas
Brown Spoken Word
a poem by Semester-at-Sea student Stephen Brown

There’s a kind of simple
            ness
A kind of simple
            mess
Things are not boggled
            down, not mixed and
            matched in wires
                        In towers
                        In complications
It’s disconcerting
            disconnecting
We wave from a boat
            to strangers
Us three
           We strange grouping
            Bangladeshi
           American
           Keralian
We drift
           rock
           pitch down the
                      river with a sawed off ashtray between us
How do we think of
           Home?
How do I think of Indiana?
           Ohio?
There’s no answer.
Maybe this one doesn’t have one.
But,
           I look towards the banks
                      And think maybe, the trees
                      got it
Through roots
           stems and branches
That’s how we stay connected, reminded
           of our intricate
           interweavings of an
           interlocking, interpersonal world
Interlaced and
           entwined
We, we strange three
           We queer group of
                      friends look towards
           The banks
People smack clothes against rocks with
           wet slaps
           Cutting open, dividing
A stingray in half
We three
This trinity of
           Holy people
Hindu
Muslim
Catholic
Here, disconnected
           from our worries
           in cities
Now, disconnected
           from blood-borne feuds
We stand connected
Well,
We sit connected
Our feet crossed
Our toes spread
           roots drop down deep.
Exposing the core of things
Exposing the beauty of this
Eyes close we drift away
But,
           not that far away
We may be separated by continents
May be separated by time zones
But,
           Our hearts reach through the ground
We can’t hug around
           a globe,
Our arms are too small
But we drop roots
           They link us together
We have found such a simple-mess in this simple-ness.

Professor Frank von Hippel from the University of Alaska in Anchorage showing off
to his biology students (and his three children) 
I am nose to nose with Buddha in Angkor Thom
Three life-long learners and a student on a sunset cruise