Sel at sea

Monday, March 18, 2013

The island paradise of Mauritius



From one citizen you gather the idea that Mauritius was made first, and then heaven; and that heaven was copied after Mauritius. Another one tells you that this is an exaggeration. – Mark Twain

Mauritius is a beautiful volcanic island in the Indian Ocean. It is as big as Rhode Island with a population of 1.2 million. The island's capital, Port Louis, has been bustling with foreign investment during the last few years, which has resulted in the construction of shopping malls, technology centers, banks and hotels. Mauritius welcomed 1 million tourists in 2012 and hopes to double that number in 2013.

With bindi after a Hindu blessing
Mauritius is a melting pot, and a harmonious one at that. Its delicious cuisine reflects the mixture of several cultures. The island considers itself part of Africa, not far from the island of Madagascar. 51% percent of people are Hindu, 25% are Christian (mostly Catholic), 21% are Muslim and 3% are Buddhist. 

Our guide Eddy V. Babajie was very knowledgeable and handsome. His grandfather was German and his grandmother was Hindu. He is Catholic and is married to a Muslim.
 
English is the official language, although most people speak French at home or Creole (a mixture of French, Chinese and Hindi) with each other. Life expectancy is 77 for women and 70 for men. Education is mandatory until the age of 16 and is free, as is healthcare. Unemployment is 2%. But one does not get social security unless disabled. 70% of high school graduates go to college – one in four to universities in the UK, Australia, France or the US. The new university in Port Louis is a welcome presence and even has a medical school.

The first people to discover the island were Arab seamen in 975 CE. There were no natives. A Portuguese sailor came in 1507, and small numbers followed but abandoned the island after a few decades. In 1638, the Dutch, under the leadership of Admiral van Warwyk, settled on the island, naming it after Prince Marits of Nassau and bringing with him a number of slaves. The Dutch also were responsible for bringing rats, which resulted in the extinction of the dodo bird (an ugly flightless bird with a large beak and no natural predators). The residents still lament the loss of these birds that used to lay their eggs on the ground (unintentionally providing the rats with plenty of food). The Dutch, who introduced sugar cane - the main export crop until recently - abandoned the island in 1716, weary of cyclones and the "lazy" people (their claim) numbering no more than 500.

The French came in 1725 and under the leadership of Commander Barnard Francois Mahe Labourdannais (the so-called father of the island). Mauritius was transformed into a viable country. Described as a man of vision and energy, Labourdannais brought law and order, and with the help of 107 colonists and 600 slaves, he built roads and buildings and relocated the harbor to Port Louis on the western side of the island, thus avoiding gales and high seas and improving the shipping trade.

Among the settlers was a friend of Napoleon, Robert Surcouf, who later became the leader of pirates, thus protecting Mauritius from British sailors. At one point, the British government offered a reward of 250,000 francs for the capture of Surcouf, who was considered a hero by the French as well as the islanders who protected him.

Following the defeat of the French Navy at the hands of the Britain, the Crown from 1810 until 1968 ruled the island. Slavery was abolished in the British Empire in 1834, which caused many plantation owners to move to India over the next 30 years in search of cheaper labor.

Today, Mauritius a democracy, having gained independence from the British in 1968, and has a socialist government. Its constitution combines the French civil code and British law. thrives on foreign investment and increased tourism to its beautiful beaches, great diving, snorkeling, deepsea fishing and golfing (to the first golf course built in the southern hemisphere, according to our guide). Sugar cane is being replaced by crops such as tobacco, coffee, mangoes and pineapple.

In 2004, fishermen caught 14,000 tons of tuna. Shrimp and oysters are plentiful. Instead of importing agricultural goods, they now raise enough onions, tomatoes and potatoes for their own consumption. "We have a great future because we get along well and work hard," said our guide. "My wife and I have two or three jobs so our children will have a better future." In addition to helping his wife at her beauty salon, Eddy sings at nightclubs. We were lucky to hear a recording of him with his 8-year-old daughter singing a Frank Sinatra classic.

Blessed in the Hindu tradition: Frances, Phyllis and I with bindis marking our chakras

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